Another Visit a few Days later
However, that trip’s adventures didn’t end with my first opportunity to go onboard the wreck. I managed to make another brief visit a few days later. On this second, but equally memorable occasion, two men whom I met on the island helped me; an artist named Capi Trillo, and a Spanish photographer, Jose Azkarraga. We were able to obtain the use of a small boat to make the short passage from beach area adjacent to the wreck to the base of that intimidating ladder. The sadness associated with the sights and smells of a dying giant that we felt was somewhat dissipated by the unfathomable actions of the artist.
He had a puzzling fascination associated with painting ants on the superstructure and in a number of the ship’s once-grand public rooms! He and his companion actually lived onboard the wreck for a few days to accomplish this bizarre task. The language barrier prevented me from ever learning why, but we did pose together for a picture on Promenade Deck.
I do not recall consciously wearing red, white and blue to honor the ship’s country of origin, but as I now look at this picture, I’ve very glad that I did!
As the artist painted, the photographer and I made the precarious journey across the break to the wreck’s aft section. I was determined to revisit a place where my Mother and her newfound friends liked to enjoy the sea air during our first trip on the AUSTRALIS ...
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When we reached the aft portion of the ship’s Sports Deck, I did my best to reprise a photographic memory of happier times (my Mother is on the far right, see picture on the left below).
Returning safely to the forward part of the Promenade Deck, the artist stopped his curious work long enough to graciously take a photo of the young Spanish photographer and me amidst the ruin of that once immaculately maintained place of passenger pleasure (on the right above) ...
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Between what I could find on the ship, things that had washed ashore, and the generosity of the islanders; I amassed quite a collection of artifacts on that trip. I was prepared; we had taken to the island a set of ‘nested’ suitcases.
When we returned to England, each bag was completely filled with pieces of heavy teak decking and handrail. That improbable feat was accomplished several times over, during subsequent trips.
That trip, for me, was an unforgettable holiday, everything working out to perfection, granting me more vivid memories and unique souvenirs recovered from the stricken ship. It was good to be going home, but already my thoughts were turning to the prospects of yet another visit.
The Third and Last Visit Onboard
My third and last visit onboard the ship was made in July of 1998 in the company of two young German lads, both medical trainees from Duisburg. They were good swimmers, and we swam together out to that external ladder. It was not the smartest thing I have ever attempted, as my wife often reminds me. It was difficult to grasp the bottom rung. The ladder was bending inwards (due to the ship’s list to port) and it was low tide at the time.
Once we gained access, we discovered what remained of the ship to be in extremely poor condition. I somewhat regretted making the effort to go back on board again. However, I was pretty sure that was going to be my last chance to ever trod her decks again ... and I was right. I snapped this picture of my two companions (on the left below), and they returned the favor at a couple of other locations ...
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The photo on the right above of me was taken on Sun Deck, starboard side, beneath a platform where one of the ship’s boats was once positioned. Behind me is one of the few remaining sets of lifeboat davits that were still on the vessel when she went aground. The others, and all her lifeboats had been removed in an abortive scrapping operation during the late 1980s that took place before she became the AMERICAN STAR.
In the summer 1999, we returned to the Canary Islands one last time. As before, we visited the wreck site and were impressed by the ship’s stoic stand against the elements. Even so, by then the remaining section of the ship exhibited more and more signs of major destruction. From a vantage point some distance directly ahead of the wreck, we could see how badly the structure had been destroyed; especially on the seaward side and throughout the bottoms of her forward cargo holds.
I didn’t dare try to go onboard again. I was told that interior decks had become tissue-thin, and vertical accesses clogged with debris. She had become a death trap, as several foolhardy souls reportedly found out.
So, we contented ourselves with seeing her one last time, and then returned home, laden with more wood and other treasures. We have not returned since then; I have no desire to see what little remains still visible of MY ship.
The last time I laid eyes, directly, upon her, appropriately it was at sunset in August of 1999. And even then, in the twilight of her existence, and dispite her condition; the ship’s timeless beauty was still apparent ...
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As previously described, some of our luggage made the outward flight nicely nested, but for the return trip we separately checked all those bags, each laden with more teak for me to put to good use in future years. There were no weight restrictions or extensive security checks when leaving the islands. However, once an airport metal detector did sound an alarm. I explained to the security official that I had some solid metal items from ‘el barco American Star’.
He knew exactly what I meant, smiled and just waved me on. How times have changed since 2001 ...
Honoring Her Memory ...
In
the years since our last pilgrimage to see the rusting remains of the
ship, I have honored her memory by restoring numerous artifacts, plus
creating several display items, primarily utilizing teak decking in
a variety of ways. Most of these items are on display in our home, including
a small desk that I fashioned entirely from the salvaged wood.
Here’s a photo of a large item I carved, after gluing several pieces of teak together. The background was carefully cut away by hand, leaving the lettering and the decorative border ‘rasied’ - just like the original. It is an exact replica of the ship’s builders plate (original metal plate on display in a museum in the United States). I could not have created it without the help of my good friend, Bill Lee, AMERICA’s unofficial historian, who did a rubbing of it for me.
It has also been my pleasure to create some one-of-a-kind items for Bill, as well. In return, he has given me numerous artifacts that he has collected over the years; assuring me on each such occasion that he has a duplicate. I do hope so!
More importantly, he and I have conspired to create some unique memorabilia for the navy crew who sailed her into harm’s way during World War II and brought her safely home. It is our small way of honoring their service.
For example, at the 2002 gathering of the USS WEST POINT Reunion Association, Bill presented each crew member present with a small plank from MY - and THEIR - ship (on the left below). In gratitude, they made me an honory member of their grand group; a distinction no amount of money could buy.
Even more satisfying, one of my creations is now sailing the seas. In 2003, Bill conceived of the idea of creating the SS AMERICA Library onboard the cruise ship PRIDE of AMERICA, and NCL America adopted his idea. He asked me to create a suitable nameboard for display in that space, using some of the teak I had removed from the namesake ship. I was delighted to do so, and my only regret is that I was unable to be present when that beautiful tribute to what once was the pride of maritime America was dedicated in June of 2005.
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But Bill (on the right above) was there, representing
both of us, and all true ‘Amerifans’. He posed beneath my
creation with Trevor Young, the representative of the cruise
line who made the library a lovely reality. 
Bill and I continue to seek ways to celebrate the life of the ship that is the object of our collective affections. This write-up is yet another example of our cooperative efforts. I am indebted to him for utilizing my raw materials and creating this finished product.
Amidst all my treasures, however, one stands out above all the rest. Let me explain ...
Before he passed away in 1998, my Father accompanied us in 1996 on one of our seven journeys to the Canary Islands. While there, he saw, for the last time, the remains of the ship that had played a prominent part in his life, as well as mine. Despite her disfigurement and obvious decay, he enjoyed the visit, as indicated by this picture taken by my wife of him, his granddaughter and myself.
Back home, inspired by our visit and the rekindling of memories of happier times, my Father created four lovely oil paintings; depicting this famous vessel as she had appeared during various service periods of her long and useful life.
All of these paintings now hang in my home, depicting her as AMERICA, as WEST POINT, as AMERICAN STAR and, of course, as AUSTRALIS. The latter image is my favorite, as might well be imagined. It brings back many memories of my youth, and of MY ship as she appeared when first I fell in love with her and was transported to far away, exotic ports.
May my Father - and MY ship - now rest in peace ...
© 2008 Steve Tacey
